![]() (If the mandrel shaft does not fall out of its own accord, opening the riveter will push the end of the mandrel out of the socket, and a light tap with a hammer will free it.) The mandrel is pulled out the rivet and dropped out of the rivet gun, ready for the next rivet to be inserted. As the riveter is operated, the mandrel is placed under a great deal of strain and finally the head snaps off and the join is secure. This locks the rivet body very firmly against the surface of the material. As the mandrel is pulled through the rivet, its head increases the diameter of the rivet shaft, bulging it outwards. The mandrel has a head slightly larger than the mandrel’s diameter and the channel in which the mandrel is very snugly seated in the rivet body there is also a slightly narrower section of the mandrel just below the head so that it will break at that point. For the purposes of this feature we’re going to use the term ‘pop’.Īs you know, screws, bolts or nails are used in a very wide range of applications, but often riveting is the best option.Ī pop rivet comprises of the rivet itself (most usually aluminium) through which passes a tightly fitting steel mandrel – rather like a nail. ![]() These rivets are also called blind rivets – this name being derived from the fact that they can be used when the operator cannot see the far side of whatever materials he or she is joining. So, here we are going to cover pop rivets (named for the sound they make when their mandrel snaps). Rivets are still widely used in aircraft and in household appliances – particularly in items such as refrigerators, stoves and ovens, microwaves and so on. Welding has now largely taken over in ship, bridge building, buildings and other fields. The repair is invisible except that one latch is more shiny and less scarred than its fellows.Īsk again in about ten years and we'll see how it looks.Rivets of many different types and materials have been used – and continue to be used – in a vast range of applications.įor instance, they have been used in ships, steel bridges, buildings, armoured fighting vehicles, machinery and more. I re-glued the inner lining with white glue, used rolled-up magazines inside to hold the lining in place while the glue dried. I then "set" them using two ball pein hammers, one outside as an anvil and the smaller inside to hammer down the rivet legs. The new latch was mounted, the new rivets pushed through the original holes and their ends spread with a small thin screwdriver and curled back with tiny needle nose pliers. There was some wood damage as the rivet legs pulled out but I tried to get the new rivets rotated to a different angle to get plenty of wood under the rivet legs. I then punched the rivets through to the inside and removed them. ![]() I went to plan B, carefully center punched the rivet heads on the outside and drilled them until the head was gone. My original plan was to bend the factory split rivets straight but they were seriously embedded in the wood. I peeled back the internal padding in the affected area. Split rivets are the way to go for more strength, and were used by the factory on the latches for the Geib Style case that I recently repaired. The wood is usually too thin and soft to hold a screw. Reglue the lining with hot melt glue.Screws are easy, but I never had much faith that they would hold for very long. You must peel back the lining to install the rivets. Sometimes I install a thin metal backing plate if I think the rivets won't hold. Split rivets are used to attach the hardware. Hopefully your new case will be under warranty! ![]() Of course to my eyes the old case simply gained more character from the two new latches with the slot-head bolts and aged brass look. Was so pleased with the first I added one more for a total of five. Bought a shiny new brass coated latch from Rockler as basilking described, gave it the old vinegar and salt treatment to "age" it to match its neighbors,Ĭarefully pealed back the inside lining with the help of a sharp knife, snipped off the ends of the original rivets, used brass bolts and lock nuts (didn't want to invest in a rivet toolset for a couple of $5.00 latches) to attach the top and bottom pieces, tightened them down, snipped off the ends and covered them with small self-adhesive cushion pads, hot-glue gunned the lining back on, and.well, there you have it. On the same case I also replaced the locking latch w/keyhole that wouldn't close and kept springing open. Jim's right, I've done this to one latch on an old Geib-style case from the '60's, used vice-grips to crimp the latch tigher, was also concerned it was becoming too likely to slip off when closed. ![]() You may be able to bend them some to tighten them up, while on the case. ![]()
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